I’ve used this method multiple times to remove hooks in past the barb. A few times the hook was pulled from me, a couple times by me, and once, last week, both. It’s worked equally well with hooks ranging from trout flys to musky lures. I am not advising anyone to forego medical treatment, but my experience says this system works. That said, if I catch a hook in the eyelid; I’m finding a doctor.
1. Separate the hook from the fish and then the hook from the lure.
2. Loop a piece of strong cordage through the bend of the hook. A piece of lightweight rope, a strong shoelace, or even a heavy duty bite leader could work.
3. Press down the eye of the hook firmly against your skin, while keeping the hook lined up in its original path. Pressing the eye of the hook is very important. This puts the force of the pull on the outside of the hook bend, away from the barb.
4. Now, pull the hook out with a hard straight “yank’ following the reverse path that put the hook in. It will hurt less than you’d think.
5. Find the hook. Sometimes it stays on the cord; usually it will fly off.
The Uni Knot is quick and easy to tie and very effective with mono or fluorocarbon lines and leaders. One simple modification makes this knot even more versatile. Passing the line through the eye twice at the beginning of the process makes it equally effective with braided or fused super-lines, giving you a reliable knot for all types of line.
A vertical lure presentation is obvious when fishing from a boat, but it is often overlooked by the shore-bound fisherman. We cast out and retrieve at one depth, whether that be near the surface or along the bottom or at one given depth inbetween. Most lures are designed to be most effective on the retrieve. Spoons, on the other hand, are equally effective on the drop as on the retrieve. By using a start and stop retrieve you can cover the entire water column. This is a technique that works great when walking the banks of steep sided lakes and ponds for suspended trout.
It will take a few casts to find the proper pattern of starts and stops. Begin with a cast to deep water. Take up most of the slack line. Count at a steady pace and watch the line. when the lure hits bottom take note and begin your retrieve. I generally reel this first cast straight in. It is likely that your spoon picked up some weed or algae. The next cast is when we start fishing. Repeat the process, but start your retrieve one or two counts less than it took to reach bottom on the first cast. For example; if it hit bottom at 10 on the previous cast, start reeling at 8 or 9 this time. Now, this cast I will again reel straight in, but with confidence that it is clean. Your lure will cut a diagonal path from the lake bottom to surface at the shoreline, and hopefully encounter trout along the way.
Next, try some mid retrieve drops. About halfway in, let it drop while counting. Note when you hit bottom. Subtract one or two and use this as your mid-retrieve drop count. Now, your retrieve will start with a vertical flutter toward the bottom, swim diagonally up toward the surface, flutter downward again, and finally swim to the surface again. With this sytem you can cover the entire water column with a zig zag pattern. Make a mental note of when and where the trout take the spoon and try to maximize the spoon’s time in that part of the retrieve. Maybe they are mostly hitting on the drop, so you add more drops. Maybe they are deep and far and you only need that first drop to connect with fish. Experiment with retrieves.
One last important tip: watch your line like a hawk. If you see any movement of the line on your drops, take up the slack and be ready to set the hook. Often the bite is visual. You may never feel them take. Put this retrieve and some spoons in your arsenal for trout or any gamefish in steep sided waters. It will payoff when other presentations do not.
A loop knot is a very useful connection for baits with subtle actions. Jigs, soft jerkbaits, and ultralight crankbaits are excellent examples of where a loop knot will aid your presentation. The thicker the line, the more valuable a loop knot connection becomes. The image above shows a Hawg Shad rigged with a 30# fluorocarbon bite leader attached with Don’s Knot.
This is an easy and strong loop knot that I use almost exclusively for my loop knot needs. It’s so reliable that I often find myself tying it when a loop is not even necessary for the presentation. A gentleman named Don showed me this knot several years back. If I remembered his full name, I’d properly credit him. I don’t, so I’ll just pass this along as Don’s Knot – which is what I have come to call it.
1. Tie an overhand knot a few inches up the line. Do not pull it tight.
2. Thread the line through the hook eye.
3. Wrap the tag end around the main line three times above the overhand knot.
4. Run the tag end through space near the hook eye and also through the overhand knot.
5. Moisten the knot and pull tight. Trim the tag end closely.
Whether you are stocking up on tackle for the season, seeking vintage collectibles, or just looking for bargains; fishing flea markets offer one stop shopping for all fishermen. As we ease into spring, we ease out of the fishing flea market season. These are two good shows that close out the season here in the Mid-Atlantic region.
April 3rd: St. Joseph’s College, John A. Danzi Athletic Center, 155 West Roe Blvd., Patchogue, NY
April 10: Cape May Elementary School, 921 Laffayette St, Cape May, NJ
Over the years, I have noticed the majority of the crappies I’ve caught exceeding two pounds have fallen for just a handful of lures. In no particular order, these are my top producers of large crappies. They are not lures that will fill a cooler every day, but they are lures that will fill your memories with images of monster crappies.
1. Thin minnow plugs – Rapalas, Rogues, Rebels, etc. We are talking bass size now – not the size that you would usually consider panfish bait. Select models in the 4 1/2 to 5 inch range. Vary your retrieves. Sometimes slow and steady is all it takes. Other times a twitching retrieve gets more strikes. This kind of bait can also be trolled with great success.
2. Soft jerkbaits – Hawg Shads, Bass Assassins, even stick worms can fit in this category. Texas rig them without weight. Use a slow, stop and go twitch retrieve to appeal to a crappie’s fondness for weak and dying minnows. The dart and glide action of a weightless soft plastic mimics this perfectly. And again, we are talking about bass size baits around the 5 inch mark.
4. Bunny Leech pike fly – This is the one that started the wheels turning. Many years ago while pursuing pike and bass with the long rod, quality crappies started appearing among my catches. The undulating rabbit strip, and stop and go action are irresistable to big crappies. Now, I’m not suggesting you take up flyfishing just to use this lure/fly. I am suggesting that if you are already a flyrodder, try a 5 to 6 inch rabbit strip leech on your favorite crappie lake. You will be pleased with the results.
What do all of these lures have in common? Size and shape is the most obvious. Consider lures with a 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 inch length along with a narrow profile. Although they dwarf typical crappie lures, we are not looking for typical crappies. We are targeting the biggest in the lake.
This is not the usual configuration for a “keeper” an hook, but this is the most secure small plastic rigging I have tried. It far outperforms glue or pegging. It holds up to repeated casting, strikes, and all kinds of rough handling. I first thought of this for surf teasers, but have since used it for trolling rigs (more on that another time), and even casting with a flyrod – all with great success.
Slip a keeper over the point of the hook, clip end first.
Slide the keeper so the clip goes beyond the eye.
Pull the keeper back so the clip goes through the eye. This may take a little bending of the keeper.
Thread the hawg Shad or other soft plastic onto the hook to the correct point for a straight final presentation.
Screw the bait onto the keeper by turning and applying light pressure. This may feel a bit awkward as you have to bend the tail of the plastic around the hook point with each turn.
When it’s screwed on all the way the bait should lay straight and ready to fish.
Is your favorite lake still frozen? You can either go stare at your ice hole, or find some open water. I’ll take the latter.
Tip 1: Be mobile. Sometimes a small change in elevation or latitude is all it takes to go from ice to open water. For the past couple of weeks I’ve done just that – driven south and then fished the warmest water I could find within those areas.
Tip 2: Pick a water that warms first. I know I alluded to that in Tip 1, but it is worth stating twice. The first waters to lose their ice will offer the first opportunities for openwater success. From there, find a pattern that you can repeat on other waters as they thaw and warm.
Tip 3: Be willing to use a combination of live bait and artificials. Some days your artificials will outfish the livies, and sometimes it’s the opposite. When possible, use them simultaneously on two different rods to cover more water and recognize a pattern.
Tip 4: Be flexible on your target species. Choose waters with multiple species of gamefish or large panfish. Bass and crappies, bass and perch, bass and pike are all great early season combos.
Want to catch more fish, and reduce your impact on the environment, and save money at the same time? Use o-rings when you wacky rig.
Each of your stickbaits will last longer. This directly helps your tackle budget. With each bait lasting longer, you’ll also spend more time fishing and less rigging. Baits rarely come off the hook on a strike or a head shaking jump, therefore, fewer baits are accidentally introduced into the environment. It’s cheaper, more efficient, and greener. If you’re not doing it already, it’s worth a look.
Here’s a step by step intro to o-rings and wacky rigging.
Spearing fish through the ice is not a common practice in most of the US. In fact, in many places it would be illegal and/or impossible to try. For those unfamiliar with the process, here are the basics. The sport takes place inside an ice shanty or darkhouse. The darkness affords a clear view beneath the ice. A large hole is cut in the ice – much larger than a little, round tip-up hole. The decoy is a hookless lure suspended through the hole to attract predatory fish within range of a spear. Although I’ve never done it myself, I’d imagine the decoy also helps gage distance and size of the fish. When suitable quarry, usually a large pike, comes within range, it is harvested with the thrust of a spear.
The spearing process is interesting, but that’s only half of the story. The other half is the artistry and craftsmanship. Handcarved from wood and heavily weighted with lead, each “fish” is carefully crafted for the correct balance and appearance to attract predators beneath the ice. Some are made by fishermen who carve, some by artists who fish, and some come from craftsmen inbetween. No matter the origin, each is an expression of creativity and ingenuity.
Decoys made by noted carvers may fetch hundreds or even thousands of dollars from collectors, but that is not the best measurement of value. The true value lies where form and function are partners, and is measured on a sliding scale of satisfaction rather than dollars and cents. That satisfaction can be reaped by the the fisherman, the collector, or the carver himself.